Sunday, December 21, 2008
Saturday, December 20, 2008
As Kevin famously notes, "I'd rather suck an egg out of a chicken's ass than moonsuit up and sand the bottom of a boat." I'll second that and note that I would rather have #14 tooth ground to a stump and have a crown put on than manage an IT project using SAP Project System and comply with CMMI requirements. This should go a long way toward an explanation of why I'll find myself enjoying bottom sanding.
It's still foggy and wet out there. I've run out of things I can stand to type on this here touchscreen. Sorry about the auto-de-formatting that gets applied to the text (fixed, no longer sorry). Off to gear up.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
First, words are somewhat less pleasant than pictures because they cause your mind to work harder to translate the symbols to concepts.
>> Here's the pix, if you want to relax for a moment.
Initially, I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to stick the HDPE to the FRP cabin sides. My primary options tended to be really expensive, hard to get, bulk order only glues like 3M DP8010NS ($18.84 / ounce) and Reltek B45TH (which may just be rebranded 3M stuff). Secondary options were mechanical fastenings like unsightly, carefully measured screws and kayak footbrace mounting studs.
The parts I ended up with were:
- (2) CPG Seaboard 1/4" x 54" x 96" Polar White UV from World Panel Products ($345). The Fabrication Guide goes into detail for your project.
- (1) West System G/flex 655 2 QT kit from West Marine ($70) - Note: WM says "tube" but what you get are 2 quart paint cans. I had to scrounge up some syringes to extract and mix properly. I probably used 1-1/2 cups of mixed glue, total. Now I have a bunch for other projects. Also, I don't buy from WM unless necessary... which it was because of delivery times. G/flex instructions are here, and here, and here, and here.
- Other bits and pieces.
Useful hint: denatured alcohol will remove "permanent" magic marker from HDPE
So, the whole installation went very well. It takes two people to do it comfortably and quickly. I performed the install in my head, writing down work instructions which I took along to the boat and immediately disregarded. However, having gone through the process in my head a few times to get it right, I was then able to improvise off of an established script. Chica-san and I were able to complete easily in 3 working days while being generally friendly with neighbors and going out to eat and such. For you in Alaska (you know who you are) who are launching into a similar project, I submit the gorey details:
- remove brass "Gulf" insignia, port and starboard
- Remove ply window hole covers
- Clean residue from gelcoat
- Dry fit new windows and adjust holes as necessary. Tape off with masking tape for silicone squeeze-out while new window is in hole.
- Remove remaining ply from FRP inside & remove amine blush
- Starboard Side:
- hold up & align
- fit trim pieces to hold (pay attention to corner location to account for both panels - e.g. Stbd side to Port forward)
- round all sharp edges on HDPE - sander / planer
- drill / screw in Gulf Insignia with screws
- J to hold aft window area
- T to mark for trimming
- Repeat for forward window area
- Remove trim, Gulf Insignia, trim window holes out, reserve holes to use as hinged (?) window covers
- Remount panel with trim pieces, using clamps in window holes
- Drymount windows as workspace becomes available
- Confirm that new screws are enough for new windows - purchase more if needed
- **>> consider using old windows as panel clamps? would need to assure they are not glued to hole by squeeze-out. do initial squeeze-out with clamps, mask old windows? work this out.
- Port Side: Repeat as above, applying lessons learned
- Forward Port & Starboard: Repeat as above, applying lessons learned
- Aft Port & Starboard: Complete.
- Dismantle and stage dry installations. In order, install Stbd side, Port side, Forward Stbd & Port, Aft Stbd & Port
- Wipe glue areas on FRP with denatured alcohol & mask gelcoat and other appropriate squeeze-out areas
- Mark glue areas on HDPE with permanent marker
- Mask glue areas as appropriate to account for squeeze-out
- Wipe glue areas with denatured alcohol & flame treat (flame touching, moving at about 1 foot per second - practice with known distance to get speed right). Have 30 minutes to get glue on before having to flame treat again. mark time, keep flame gear around.
- Mix & apply glue
- Mount panel to pilothouse cabin side, affix with clamps and trim pieces, Gulf Insignia (sides) and hinge screws (aft)
- 10 hours before cure (at 70F, longer for colder which will be the case)
- Window frames are PVC Vinyl - no lacquer thinner or MEK
- clean window frame material with denatured alcohol or acetone
- mask outside of flange to prevent squeeze-out sticking later
- lightly sand gelcoat where silicone will adhere
- clean gelcoat with acetone
- starting at bottom middle, apply continuous ~1/4" caulk bead to flange only
- place window in opening
- screw gun on low speed, and screwing slowly to prevent melting plastic...
- screw middle top and bottom screws
- install rest of screws, alternating diagonally opposed from middle to outer sides (adjusts for any cabin side curve present)
- use rounding edge on stir stick to clean up squeeze-out on each window
- allow silicone to cure
- remove masking tape
Monday, December 1, 2008
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Friday, July 25, 2008
Mark Plastics in Corona CA made the originals. They still have the patterns, can make identical replacements, and get them to me for about $2600. The window and screen frames are plastic and cannot be opened for repair when needed later. The panes are 1/4" tempered glass instead of acrylic. Gone are the days of the forward opening windows. I'll have to put a hatch in the cabin top for airflow at anchor. Dang. My other option is Bomon, who can do it for about $3100 with aluminum window and screen frames that disassemble for repair. Bomon's windows meet ABYC standards. Not sure if Mark Plastics windows do. All other marine window manufacturing companies I discovered appeared to not have 2 inch radius corner making capability. The originals are 1-7/8" radius corners. If I go with a significantly different radius, I get into a bunch of glass fabrication and gel-coat matching to build the corners of the cutouts back up (thanks to Aeolus Gulf 32 blog for posts). Also some potential scale and aesthetic differences. Big list of boat window fabricators in case you're in this game, too:
1790 SW 13th Court
Pompano Beach, FL 33069-4715
U.S.A. Marine Windows Mfg Inc.
5937 RavensWood Road Bay-H6
Dania Beach Florida, 33312
Ocean Dynamics USA
18377 N.E. 4th Court
Miami, Florida 33179
Diamond Sea-Glaze Mfg. Ltd.
26995 Gloucester Way
Canada V4W 3Y3
Phone: (604) 607-0091
Fax: (604) 607-0092
Peninsula Glass, Motion Windows
6005 NE 121st Ave
Vancouver, WA 98682
28336 Hunter Creek Road, Gold Beach OR
Waterway Systems LLC
7010 28th St Ct E, Unit 5
Sarasota, FL 34243
(941) 752-3554 1-800-952-3886
B & J Aluminum Windows
PO Box 385
Loreauville, LA 70552
So, most pictures of boats I see with interior paneling show some areas of water intrusion and rot. The manufacturers generally slap the ply on the glass hull and run on to other tasks without taking the time (that they perceive as money) to prepare it for the marine environment. This guy goes into great detail on the subject. Anyway, I'm getting away from maintenance items wherever possible. I'm going to replace the teak ply with Seaboard, which is HDPE plastic, recycleable #2. It's food safe, inert in its product form, guaranteed not to delaminate, ever, as it's an extrusion, and I'll get white to brighten up the interior. Here's an example of interior white in the new Gulf 32 demo boat. I like. I'll order 2 sheets of 56" x 96" Seaboard at World Panel Products for about $345 and tote them home on top of my truck. My concerns with the Seaboard are:
- Dimensional stability: Following the estimation formula in the fabrication guide, the side panels could be expected to contract and expand in length by about 0.432 inches. Not a lot, and I can make room for it, but what happens when I fasten the Seaboard to the FRP with the recommended epoxy glue and a few retaining screws? Does it crack when the outer surface tries to expand and the inner surface is stuck firmly to the FRP? Does the FRP expand with it? It probably does not matter, but it'll bug me as long as we have the boat
- Transport: Can I get it to stay on the truck all the way home without damaging it? Probably. I'll put it on the roof rack, use the canoe gunwale (say "gun'l") stays to hold it in place, use wood clamps to hold it together, and use various bits of line to strap it to the roof rack. But I bet it's slippery stuff.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
"tough." been thinking about that. I always thought I was a bit of a weenie. Perceptions...
Monday, June 23, 2008
Thought I'd pop in here and type quickly. I kind of don't have much to say. I'm flopping and lolling in the summer doldrums with the boat work. Ripped out the windows and the delaminated quarter inch teak plywood from the cabin top in late May and early June. Turns out the windows are all plastic and 5200. I'm obsessing about whether or not to use 1/4 inch HDPE sheet (King Starboard or Seaboard) as the replacement for the teak. My sticking point is dimensional stability under thermal ranges to be expected on the boat. Kevin is close, if not finished, on the engine and rudder / steering install.
Mostly I've been doing other stuff (and avoiding doing other stuff). Chica-san and I went to the Lowe Museum in Miami yesterday, then poked around Coconut Grove for awhile. Had French food in a Frenchie restaurant. Interesting thin man in 30s or 40s at the next table with a bar code tatoo on his inner forearm, an older wife, and a7 year-old daughter eating huge amounts of food. Goofed off in Delray on Saturday. A guy and his boyfriend in line behind us at Ben & Jerry's got a chocolate covered banana. Not much to do in SoFla if you don't have your boat here, aren't a shopper, don't swing with golf, ain't ultra-rich, and don't go to church.
Gotta scoot. Chica sez creamy gorgonzola pasta's ready!
Sunday, April 20, 2008
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Grrrr. So, this is the rest of my magical mystery post. Not sure why it was ignored... It's interesting to me that I can putter around in the boatyard all day and share some of my conciousness with any one who cares to know. How long before I can just grant you access to my conciousness in real time?
Gibson's report: Luke's boat has been hauled out. Mark dropped by to say howdy. Kevin stopped zipping around long enough to do some fishing at high tide in the canal. Buck is flying the Argonauts' rainbow flag that Del dug up. The toilet seat has been replaced (this is a big deal). Somebody bought Spica and started a really bad paint job on her - looks like they got in a fight with mops that happened to be soaked in Interlux Perfection Oyster white. And finally, it is said that Frenchie on Dolfijn is married to a Bush speech writer. egad.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Saw Kevin and caught up with him on some items. The Packless Sealing System (PSS) was off the prop shaft, and the old bronze packing nut and gland were back on. I like the idea of this arrangement better as the PSS instructions indicated that it was pretty feeble and fey when accosted by things like a little bit of time, air that isn't 100% oxygen, and liquids that aren't 100% water. With the neoprene boot that could have been torn easily, it looked just too fragile to be installed on any self-respecting rat islander's boat. I liked its high-tech idea at first, but practicality usually wins out one way or another.
On the way out of town, we stopped at Niko's for lunch. Sat one booth over from two couples with one man holding court, spewing half-baked opinions like the steaming, oily rush of air from a rusty old casino boat's engine room. Somewhere between admiring a passing Honda Trail Ridge (sic) pickup truck while claiming that it wasn't any good and explaining that someone had set (sic) Beull Clinton down (the crook) and told him to shut up cuz he h'ain't seen him awn TV lately, Mr. Knowledge claimed that, in his book (which I'm sure is dark and near his heart), Jimmy Carter was un-American. Chica-san let out a sharp laugh and the fun began...
Friday, April 11, 2008
rat islanders, so they pressed on under sail power alone. Then the rudder fell off. Yup, I'm hangin' with the right crowd. I'm right at home. Life is good. Keith took off on Saturday to get into some well-deserved paddling and fishing at Isle of Palms, SC.
activities - sanded patch/acne off, final coat of primer, sanded, first topcoat, sanded, second topcoat. starting to look like a boat.